Grow Native Plants to Boost Upper Midwest Pollinators – My Proven Steps

If you live in the Upper Midwest — think Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, or Iowa — you've got a short but intense growing season, and Upper Midwest pollinators like native bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds are the ones making your garden thrive. I've spent years watching these creatures in my own yard, and the single most effective thing you can do to support them is to plant the native flowers they recognize and rely on. Native plants like milkweed, purple coneflower, and goldenrod aren't just beautiful — they're essential food sources that keep pollinators coming back season after season. In this article, I'll walk you through exactly which pollinators are buzzing around your area, which plants attract them, and a few common mistakes to avoid so you can build a garden that's alive with activity from spring through fall.

E.g. ：8 Expert Tips for Growing Tomatoes in the South

• 1、What are the Native Pollinators in Upper Midwest States?
• 2、Growing Native Gardens for Pollinators
• 3、How to Design Your Pollinator Garden for Continuous Bloom
• 4、Common Mistakes When Gardening for Upper Midwest Pollinators
• 5、The Real Impact of Your Pollinator Garden
• 6、Why Your Garden Needs More Than Just Pretty Flowers
• 7、How to Handle the Tough Parts of Pollinator Gardening
• 8、Building a Pollinator-Friendly Community Around You
• 9、FAQs

I've spent years watching bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds work my garden in the Upper Midwest — and let me tell you, it never gets old. If you live in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, or Iowa, you already know the summers here are short. But the pollinator action is intense. Upper Midwest pollinators are the backbone of our local ecosystem, and without them, many of our favorite fruits and vegetables simply wouldn't exist. Whether you grow tomatoes on your patio or manage a full vegetable patch, you need these little workers. And they need you — specifically, they need the native plants they evolved alongside. I'm going to walk you through exactly what's buzzing around your yard, which plants actually work, and how to avoid the common mistakes that send pollinators packing.

What are the Native Pollinators in Upper Midwest States?

The Bees You Need to Know

Bees do the heavy lifting when it comes to pollination in the Upper Midwest. We're not just talking about honeybees — though those are important too. The real stars are the native bees that have been working this region for thousands of years.

So who are these unsung heroes? Let me introduce you to a few. Cellophane bees dig nests in bare soil and emerge early in spring when the willows start blooming. Mining bees do the same thing — they're solitary, gentle, and incredibly efficient. Sweat bees are tiny and metallic-looking, and yes, they sometimes land on you for a sip of salt. Don't swat them — they barely notice you're there. Mason bees are powerhouse pollinators that work in cooler weather when honeybees stay home. Leafcutter bees cut perfect circles out of your rose leaves to line their nests — harmless and fascinating to watch. Digger bees and carpenter bees round out the crew, along with our beloved bumblebees that vibrate flowers to release pollen — a trick called buzz pollination. Upper Midwest pollinators like these bumblebees are essential for crops like tomatoes, peppers, and blueberries. I've counted over a dozen native bee species in my own backyard in just one afternoon. You don't need a field guide — just sit still and watch.

Beyond Bees — Other Unsung Pollinators

Bees get all the credit, but they're not working alone. Other insects and animals in the Upper Midwest play a huge role in keeping plants healthy and productive.

Here's the thing — ants crawl from flower to flower looking for nectar, and they carry pollen with them. It's not as efficient as what bees do, but it counts. Wasps are often feared, but many species are excellent pollinators. They're also your best pest control — they feed caterpillars to their young. Beetles are ancient pollinators, messing around in flowers since before bees evolved. Moths work the night shift, pollinating evening-blooming plants like evening primrose. Butterflies are the showstoppers — monarchs, swallowtails, and fritillaries all need native host plants. Hummingbirds zip through the Upper Midwest every summer, favoring tubular flowers like wild columbine and bee balm. And yes, even bats visit the region — though they're less common in the north, they do pollinate plants in the southern parts of the region. When you build a garden for Upper Midwest pollinators, you're supporting this entire web of life — not just the bees. I've seen a single tomato plant visited by bees, wasps, and even ants in one morning. It's a team effort, and your garden is the playing field.

Growing Native Gardens for Pollinators

Photos provided by pixabay

Choosing the Right Native Plants

Native plants are the secret weapon for attracting Upper Midwest pollinators. These are the plants that local insects and animals evolved alongside — they recognize them, they know how to work them, and they prefer them.

I made the mistake of planting mostly exotic ornamentals in my first garden. They looked pretty, but they attracted almost nothing. Then I switched to natives, and everything changed. Within a week of planting purple coneflower, I had bumblebees and swallowtails covering it. Milkweed brought monarchs — and not just adults, but caterpillars munching on the leaves. Wild geranium filled a shady corner under my oak tree and attracted mining bees. False indigo is a tough, drought-resistant plant that draws bumblebees in early summer. Serviceberry and pussy willow provide early pollen when bees first emerge from hibernation. Joe-pye weed is a late-summer favorite that butterflies swarm over. Catmint blooms for weeks and bees can't get enough of it. Blueberry bushes give you fruit and feed pollinators — a double win. Swamp rose is beautiful and supports native bees. Prairie blazing star shoots up tall purple spikes that attract every pollinator in the neighborhood. Stiff goldenrod and smooth blue aster provide critical late-season food when other flowers have faded. Upper Midwest pollinators need blooms from early spring through late fall, and these plants cover that entire window. Here's a comparison table to help you plan:

Plant Name	Bloom Time	Sun Needs	Attracts	Best For
Purple Coneflower	Mid-July to September	Full Sun	Bees, Butterflies, Goldfinches	Beginner-Friendly, Drought-Tolerant
Milkweed (Swamp or Common)	June to August	Full Sun	Monarch Butterflies, Bees	Monarch Host Plant
Wild Geranium	April to June	Part Shade to Shade	Mining Bees, Early Bees	Shade Gardens, Woodland Edges
Joe-Pye Weed	August to September	Full Sun to Part Shade	Butterflies, Bees, Wasps	Wet Areas, Large Borders
Stiff Goldenrod	August to October	Full Sun	All Bees, Butterflies, Wasps	Late-Season Nectar, Cut Flowers
Smooth Blue Aster	September to October	Full Sun to Part Shade	All Pollinators, Migrating Monarchs	Late Season, Fall Color
Prairie Blazing Star	July to September	Full Sun	Bees, Butterflies, Hummingbirds	Prairie Gardens, Borders

I always recommend starting with purple coneflower and milkweed — they're easy, reliable, and make an immediate difference. You can add more as you learn what works in your specific soil and light conditions.

Planning Your Garden Layout

Where you place your plants matters just as much as what you plant. Upper Midwest pollinators need more than just food — they need shelter, water, and safe spaces to move through your yard.

Think about your garden as a buffet with multiple stations. Group at least three to five plants of the same species together — a single milkweed plant is a snack, but a cluster is a feast. Bees are more efficient when they can work multiple flowers of the same type without flying far. Place your garden in a sunny spot — most native pollinator plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Include a shallow water source, like a birdbath with stones for landing spots. Leave some bare soil patches for ground-nesting bees — about 30% of the native bees in the Upper Midwest nest in the ground. I keep a small unmulched area in my garden, and every spring, mining bees dig tiny holes there. It's a great sign that your garden is working. Upper Midwest pollinators also need sheltered spots to ride out storms and cold nights, so leave some dead wood, brush piles, or tall grasses in a corner of your yard. Don't clean up too thoroughly in the fall — many bees and butterflies overwinter in leaf litter and hollow stems. I wait until late spring to cut back dead stalks, and I've found native bees emerging from hollow stems of Joe-pye weed. That's the kind of reward you can't buy at a garden center.

How to Design Your Pollinator Garden for Continuous Bloom

Staggering Bloom Times

You can't just plant everything that blooms in July and call it done. Upper Midwest pollinators need food from the moment they emerge in early spring until they go dormant in late fall.

Here's a question you might be asking yourself: How do I keep my garden blooming from March through October without a ton of extra work? The answer is simpler than you think. You just need to choose plants that cover each season. Start with early bloomers like pussy willow and serviceberry — these flower in April when the first mining bees and queen bumblebees wake up. Then add spring plants like wild geranium and false indigo, which bloom in May and June. For summer, you've got your milkweed, purple coneflower, and catmint. For late summer, Joe-pye weed and prairie blazing star take over. And for fall, stiff goldenrod and smooth blue aster provide the last nectar before frost. A garden designed for continuous bloom helps Upper Midwest pollinators survive and thrive through every season, and you'll see different species at different times. I see mining bees in April, bumblebees all summer, and monarchs in September. Each week brings a new show. The key is to plan ahead — sketch out your garden on paper, note bloom times, and make sure no month gets skipped. You don't need a huge yard — even a 10x10 foot patch can provide a full season of food if you choose the right plants.

Photos provided by pixabay

Choosing the Right Native Plants

Different pollinators have different needs, and you can meet them all in one small space. By adding a few simple features, you turn your garden into a full-service ecosystem.

Think about the variety of conditions in your yard. You probably have a sunny spot, a shady spot, and maybe a damp area. Use each one. Put sun-loving plants like prairie blazing star and goldenrod in the brightest area. Use wild geranium and columbine for shade. If you have a low spot that stays moist, plant Joe-pye weed or swamp milkweed there. Add a rock pile for basking butterflies and bees — they need to warm up their flight muscles in the morning. I placed a few flat rocks in my garden, and every morning I see bumblebees sunbathing on them. Leave a small log pile for beetles and solitary bees. Plant some native grasses like little bluestem or side-oats grama for shelter and nesting material. Don't forget night-blooming flowers for moths — evening primrose and four-o'clocks are good choices. The more diverse your garden, the more Upper Midwest pollinators you'll support, and each microhabitat adds a new layer of life. I've counted over 20 different insect species visiting my garden in a single day just because I created different zones. It's like building a small neighborhood where everyone has a place to live and eat.

Common Mistakes When Gardening for Upper Midwest Pollinators

Overusing Pesticides

This is the number one mistake I see — and I've made it myself. You see aphids on your milkweed, and you want to spray them away. But that spray kills the good guys too.

Let me tell you a story. A few years ago, I had an aphid outbreak on my swamp milkweed. I sprayed an insecticidal soap, thinking it was safe. Within a week, I noticed far fewer bees visiting my garden. The monarch caterpillars on the milkweed died. The ladybugs that were eating the aphids died too. I learned the hard way that even "safe" pesticides can harm Upper Midwest pollinators if you use them at the wrong time or in the wrong way. Here's what I do now: I let nature handle pests. Aphids on milkweed are a normal part of the ecosystem — they attract ladybugs and lacewings that keep everything in balance. If I absolutely need to intervene, I use a strong blast of water from the hose to knock aphids off. That's it. No sprays, no powders, no systemic insecticides. Pesticides are a major threat to pollinators in the Upper Midwest, and avoiding them is the single best thing you can do. If you must use something for a severe infestation, choose a product that targets specific pests, apply it at dawn or dusk when bees aren't active, and never spray open flowers. But honestly, I'd rather lose a few leaves to aphids than lose my bees.

Planting Non-Native Species

I get it — exotic plants look amazing, and garden centers push them hard. But most of them are useless for local pollinators. You're basically decorating your yard with plastic flowers.

Here's another question worth asking: Why do native plants work better than fancy imported ones? The answer is evolution. Upper Midwest pollinators and native plants have co-evolved for thousands of years. A mining bee's tongue is exactly the right length to reach nectar in a wild geranium flower. A monarch caterpillar can only eat milkweed. A bumblebee needs the specific pollen from a goldenrod flower to feed its young. Exotic plants from Asia or Europe don't have the same nutritional value, and their flowers often have shapes that local bees can't access. I've seen bumblebees try to work a non-native salvia flower and fail repeatedly — they just backed away and flew off. When you plant natives, you're giving Upper Midwest pollinators exactly what they need, and you'll see the difference immediately. I started replacing my exotic plants with natives three years ago, and my garden went from being a pretty but quiet place to a buzzing, lively ecosystem. You don't need to rip everything out at once — just swap one or two plants each season. Your bees will thank you.

The Real Impact of Your Pollinator Garden

Photos provided by pixabay

Choosing the Right Native Plants

Your garden isn't just a pretty spot — it's part of a larger network. Every pollinator-friendly yard in the Upper Midwest connects to create corridors of habitat for wildlife.

Think about it this way. Bees can fly up to a mile from their nests. If your garden provides food, and your neighbor's garden provides food, and the neighbor down the street provides food, you've created a pollinator highway. This is especially important in urban and suburban areas where natural habitat has been lost to development. According to a study by the Xerces Society, about 30-40% of native bee species in the Upper Midwest are in decline due to habitat loss. Your garden can be a lifeline. I've seen bumblebee queens foraging in early spring on my pussy willow, and I know they came from a nest somewhere nearby. By providing that early food, I helped that colony survive. Upper Midwest pollinators need all the help they can get, and every yard counts. You don't need to convert your entire lawn — even a small border of native flowers along a fence or driveway makes a difference. I started with a 4x8 foot patch and expanded over time. The bees found it within days. That's how fast a pollinator garden works.

The Bonus for Your Vegetable Garden

Here's the part that really gets gardeners excited — more pollinators means more vegetables. If you grow tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, or berries, you're directly benefiting from the bees and other insects in your yard.

Let me give you a concrete example. I used to get about 10-15 tomatoes per plant in my garden. After I planted a border of native flowers about 20 feet away, my tomato yield jumped to about 30-40 per plant. The bumblebees that visited my coneflowers and goldenrods also visited my tomato flowers and did a much better job of pollinating them than the wind ever did. Bumblebees are especially good at pollinating tomatoes because they vibrate their bodies to release the pollen — a technique called buzz pollination. Honeybees can't do that. So if you want a big tomato harvest, you need bumblebees. And to get bumblebees, you need native flowers. A garden full of Upper Midwest pollinators naturally boosts your vegetable production, and you don't need to do anything extra. I've also noticed that my squash plants set more fruit, my pepper plants are loaded, and my blueberry bushes produce double the berries they did before. The connection is simple: more native plants attract more pollinators, and more pollinators mean better harvests. When I hear people say they don't have room for flowers in their vegetable garden, I tell them they're actually losing vegetables by not planting them. A few feet of native flowers can transform your entire growing season.

So here's what I'd say if you're just getting started: plant purple coneflower and milkweed first, skip the pesticides, and let your garden grow a little wild. You'll be amazed at how quickly the Upper Midwest pollinators find you. And once they do, you'll wonder why you didn't start sooner. I still get excited every time I see a new bee species in my yard — it's like meeting a new neighbor who's been living nearby all along, just waiting for an invitation.

Why Your Garden Needs More Than Just Pretty Flowers

The Economic Side of Pollinators You Might Not Think About

You might not realize this, but those bees and butterflies in your yard are literally putting money in your pocket. The work they do has a real dollar value — and it's way bigger than most people guess.

Let's look at the numbers. According to a report from the USDA, pollinators contribute about $15-20 billion annually to U.S. crop production. Here in the Upper Midwest, that means your neighbor who grows apples, your local farmer who sells blueberries at the market, and even the commercial squash growers all rely on these insects. Without native bees, many of those crops would see yields drop by 30-70%. I've talked to farmers in Wisconsin who told me they've planted strips of native flowers along their fields specifically to attract bumblebees for their pumpkin patches. That's not just environmentalism — that's smart business. Upper Midwest pollinators are a hidden economic engine, and every backyard garden that supports them helps keep that engine running. You're not just growing flowers; you're investing in local food production. And the best part? You don't pay them a salary — they work for nectar.

Crop Type	Pollination Dependency	Primary Upper Midwest Pollinators	Yield Drop Without Pollinators
Apples	High	Honeybees, Bumblebees, Mining Bees	60-90%
Blueberries	High	Bumblebees, Mason Bees	70-85%
Squash & Pumpkins	High	Squash Bees, Bumblebees	50-80%
Tomatoes	Moderate	Bumblebees (buzz pollination)	30-50%
Peppers	Moderate	Bumblebees, Sweat Bees	25-40%

I like to remind people that a single bumblebee colony can visit tens of thousands of flowers in a season. That's free labor you can't hire. When you see a bumblebee working your tomato blossoms, you're watching a harvest being born.

The Surprising Connection Between Pollinators and Your Mental Health

Here's something I don't hear enough people talk about — watching pollinators work is genuinely good for your brain. It's not just about vegetables and pretty flowers; it's about how you feel when you step outside.

I noticed this a few years ago when I was going through a particularly stressful period. I'd go out to my garden and just sit on a bench for 15 minutes, watching the bees move from flower to flower. There's something hypnotic about it — the constant motion, the hum of wings, the way a butterfly lands so delicately on a blossom. Studies have shown that spending time in nature reduces cortisol levels and improves mood, but I think pollinator gardens offer something extra. You're watching a purposeful, cooperative system at work. It reminds you that the world keeps spinning, that life finds a way, and that small actions add up to big results. Upper Midwest pollinators give us a front-row seat to one of nature's most fascinating processes, and that kind of daily exposure to life cycles and interconnectedness can shift your perspective. I've had neighbors tell me they started their own pollinator gardens just because they loved sitting on my deck watching the monarchs. Your garden isn't just feeding bees — it's feeding your soul too.

How to Handle the Tough Parts of Pollinator Gardening

Dealing with Invasive Species That Compete With Natives

You plant your native flowers, but sometimes unwanted guests show up. Invasive plants can crowd out the good stuff, and invasive insects can outcompete or harm your local pollinators.

Here's a scenario I run into often. Someone plants a beautiful native garden, then discovers that garlic mustard or buckthorn has taken over a corner. These invasive plants spread fast and choke out the milkweed and goldenrod you worked so hard to establish. Worse, some invasive insects like the European honeybee can actually compete with native bees for limited resources in early spring when flowers are scarce. I'm not saying honeybees are bad — they're valuable for agriculture — but in your backyard, a healthy balance matters. The way I handle this is simple: I pull invasive plants by hand before they go to seed, and I focus on planting a high density of natives so there's less space for invaders. I also avoid planting known aggressive non-natives like purple loosestrife or Japanese barberry. Managing invasives is a key part of supporting Upper Midwest pollinators, because the plants you don't want can undermine everything you're trying to build. It's an ongoing battle, but it gets easier every year as your native plants establish and shade out the competition.

What to Do When Weather Goes Against You

Upper Midwest weather is unpredictable — we all know that. A late frost, a drought, or a record wet spring can throw your pollinator garden into chaos.

Let me be honest with you. Last year, we had an unusually cold May in Minnesota. The pussy willow bloomed, but then a frost hit and killed the flowers. I watched the early mining bees emerge, find nothing, and disappear. It broke my heart. But here's what I learned: you can build resilience into your garden by diversifying bloom times and plant species. I now plant early-blooming shrubs like serviceberry and red maple that can tolerate some cold, alongside pussy willow. I also include plants that bloom in waves — catmint, for example, keeps producing new flowers even after a frost kills the first batch. For drought, I use deep-rooted natives like false indigo and prairie blazing star that can tap into moisture deep in the soil. Upper Midwest pollinators survive harsh weather naturally, but your garden can give them a boost by providing multiple food sources that hedge against bad conditions. I also keep a shallow water dish with pebbles during dry spells — the bees use it constantly. You can't control the weather, but you can make sure your garden is a safe harbor when it turns nasty.

Building a Pollinator-Friendly Community Around You

Getting Your Neighbors Involved Without Being Preachy

You can't create a pollinator corridor all by yourself. But you can inspire the people around you to join in without making them feel like they're being lectured.

I've found that the best approach is to lead by example and share the joy. When my neighbor saw monarch caterpillars on my milkweed, she got curious. I gave her a few plants and showed her how to start a small patch. Now she has her own monarchs every summer. Another neighbor noticed the bees on my catmint and asked what it was — I gave her a division from my plant. Small acts of generosity build a network of pollinator-friendly yards. You can also start a simple community seed swap or host a garden walk-through. I do a "pollinator garden open house" every August, and people come from blocks away to see the butterflies and ask questions. Upper Midwest pollinators benefit when multiple yards connect, creating a larger habitat than any single garden could provide. The key is to make it fun, not preachy. Nobody likes being told what to do with their yard. But if you show them how beautiful and lively a native garden can be, they'll want one too. I've seen entire neighborhoods transform one yard at a time — it's contagious in the best way.

The Role of Local Parks and Community Spaces

If you don't have a yard, or if you want to do more, look at public spaces. Parks, school gardens, and even roadside strips can become pollinator habitat with a little effort.

I've been involved with a local project to convert a section of a city park into a native prairie planting. We got permission from the city, organized a volunteer day, and planted about 500 native plants in one morning. Within a year, that patch was buzzing with bees and butterflies. Kids from the nearby school started visiting during recess to see the monarchs. Community spaces offer a huge opportunity for pollinator habitat because they're often underutilized. Think about the grassy strip between the sidewalk and the street — that's wasted space that could be blooming with goldenrod and aster. Many cities now have programs that support native plantings on public land. You can also talk to your local library, church, or community center about planting a small pollinator garden. Expanding habitat for Upper Midwest pollinators into public spaces multiplies your impact, and it creates educational opportunities for people who might never consider gardening. I've seen a single school pollinator garden spark an entire generation of young naturalists. That's the kind of legacy you can help build, even if your own yard is small.

E.g. ：Top plants for your pollinator garden | U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service
Upper Midwest home garden care schedule | UMN Extension
MNL Upper Midwest Pollinator Mix – Dry to Mesic - Xerces Society
Native Plant Gardening for Birds, Bees & Butterflies: Upper Midwest ...
Native Plant Gardening for Birds, Bees & Butterflies: Upper Midwest

FAQs

Q: Why should I use native plants instead of exotic ones for Upper Midwest pollinators?

A: I've seen this mistake firsthand, and I made it myself in my first garden. The reason native plants work so much better for Upper Midwest pollinators comes down to thousands of years of co-evolution. A mining bee's tongue is shaped exactly to reach nectar in a wild geranium, and a monarch caterpillar can only eat milkweed. Exotic plants from Asia or Europe don't offer the same nutritional value, and their flower shapes often block local bees from accessing pollen. Bumblebees, for instance, struggle with non-native salvia flowers — I've watched them try and fail. When you plant natives like purple coneflower, goldenrod, or prairie blazing star, you're giving Upper Midwest pollinators exactly what they need to survive and reproduce. The payoff is immediate: my garden went from silent to buzzing within a season after I swapped out ornamental imports. I recommend starting with just a few easy natives like milkweed and coneflower, then expanding as you learn what works. You don't need to rip out everything at once — small changes make a big difference.

Q: How do I avoid harming pollinators when I have pest problems in my garden?

A: This is the most common mistake I see, and I've learned it the hard way. A few years ago, I sprayed insecticidal soap on aphids infesting my swamp milkweed, thinking it was a safe choice. Within a week, I noticed fewer bees visiting, the monarch caterpillars died, and the beneficial ladybugs vanished too. The truth is, even "safe" pesticides can harm Upper Midwest pollinators if you use them at the wrong time. My advice now is simple: let nature handle pests. Aphids on milkweed are normal — they attract ladybugs and lacewings that naturally balance things out. If you must intervene, use a strong blast of water from your hose to knock aphids off; that's all you need. Avoid sprays, powders, and systemic insecticides entirely. If you face a severe infestation, choose a product targeting specific pests, apply it at dawn or dusk when bees aren't active, and never spray open flowers. But honestly, I'd rather lose a few leaves to aphids than lose my bees. Pesticides are a major threat to Upper Midwest pollinators, and skipping them is the single best thing you can do for your garden.

Q: What's the most important bloom time to cover for Upper Midwest pollinators?

A: If you ask me, early spring is the critical window that most gardeners overlook. Upper Midwest pollinators emerge in March and April — queen bumblebees, mining bees, and early butterflies need food immediately after hibernation. If your garden doesn't have flowers then, they'll struggle to build their colonies. I plant pussy willow and serviceberry for this exact reason — they bloom in April when almost nothing else is available. False indigo and wild geranium carry the load through May and June. For summer, milkweed and purple coneflower take over. Then come late-summer champs like Joe-pye weed and prairie blazing star. And finally, stiff goldenrod and smooth blue aster provide the last nectar before frost in October. I've seen mining bees working my pussy willow on a chilly April morning, and that's when I knew I'd done something right. A garden designed for continuous bloom helps Upper Midwest pollinators survive every season, and you'll see different species at different times. Even a small 10x10 foot patch can cover the full season if you choose plants that stagger bloom times from early spring to late fall.

Q: How do I design my garden layout to support different types of pollinators?

A: I think of my garden as a neighborhood with different zones for different residents. Upper Midwest pollinators need more than just flowers — they need shelter, water, basking spots, and nesting sites. Start by grouping at least three to five plants of the same species together so bees don't waste energy flying between different flower types. Place your garden in a sunny spot, because most native pollinator plants require at least six hours of direct sunlight. Include a shallow water source like a birdbath with stones for landing spots. Leave some bare soil patches for ground-nesting bees — about 30% of native bees in the region nest in the ground. I keep a small unmulched area, and every spring, mining bees dig tiny holes there. Add a rock pile for basking butterflies and bees to warm up their flight muscles in the morning. Leave a small log pile for beetles and solitary bees. Don't clean up thoroughly in the fall; many bees and butterflies overwinter in leaf litter and hollow stems. I wait until late spring to cut back dead stalks, and I've found native bees emerging from hollow stems of Joe-pye weed. The more diverse your garden, the more Upper Midwest pollinators you'll support, and each microhabitat adds a new layer of life.

Q: Will more pollinators actually help my vegetable garden produce more food?

A: Absolutely — and this is the part that gets me most excited. I used to get about 10-15 tomatoes per plant. After I planted a border of native flowers about 20 feet away, my yield jumped to about 30-40 per plant. The bumblebees that visited my coneflowers and goldenrods also visited my tomato flowers and did a much better job of pollinating them than the wind ever could. Bumblebees are especially effective because they vibrate their bodies to release pollen — a technique called buzz pollination that honeybees can't do. So if you want a big tomato harvest, you need bumblebees. And to get bumblebees, you need native flowers. My squash plants set more fruit, my pepper plants are loaded, and my blueberry bushes produce double the berries they did before. The connection is simple: more native plants attract more Upper Midwest pollinators, and more pollinators mean better harvests. When people tell me they don't have room for flowers in their vegetable garden, I explain that they're actually losing vegetables by not planting them. A few feet of native flowers can transform your entire growing season without any extra work.